The middle of the 14th century
saw a major change in European fashion, with
much more fitted clothing than had been worn previously. The
earlier
fashion is probably well typified by the clothing of the Bocksten Man,
with
the famous Herjolfsnes Greenland finds being a transition between the
old
styles and the new.
Garments
and Armor in the Canterbury Tales
Women
To simplify greatly, women's main garments were a smock -- usually of
linen and acting as underwear next to the skin, a kirtle -- a
fitted garment usually of wool worn over the smock, and optionally a
gown worn over the kirtle. There are other names used for these
clothes, like cote, cotte,
cotehardie and many others. Rather than deal with the plethora of
period
terms, some modern researchers use the term "Gothic Fitted Dress" to
describe
these garments. A mauture woman's hair is covered in a variety of ways,
she
is wearing stockings and leather shoes, and may have accessories like
girdles,
purses, and jewelry.
Extant Garments
The
Moy Gown
Herjolfsnes #39
dress
Herjolfsnes #38
dress
Reconstruction
Two of the leading researchers in women's clothes of this era are:
Robin Netherton
(some pictures
here from one of her seminars)
and Tasha McGann
Fitting
a 14th or 15th Century Supportive Dress
Other good
reconstruction
information by Charlotte Johnson
A
pattern
for a simple kirtle
Images
14th Century
Women's
Clothing in Period Art
Examples of
Women's
Clothing
Men
Men wore a variety of garments. Their basic underlayers consisted of a
shirt
(linen) and braies (underpants, also linen) and chauses (long stockings
attached
to the braies, usually wool). Over these layers a man might wear a cote
or
the more fashionable and highly shaped pourpoint. A gown might also be
worn,
which could be an overlayer. Hoods and other kinds of headwear are
popular
and sometimes worn in very creative ways. Girdles and purses are common
accessories.
Extant Garments
Charles
de Blois
Pourpoint
Charles de Blois
pourpoint
(excellent color pics of the original)
Herjolfsnes
No. 33
tunic
Herjolfnes
coat #63
the Bocksten
Man
Reconstruction:
Charles
de Blois pourpoint
Cothehardies:
Cutting and Fitting the Grand Aissiette
The St.
Louis
Shirt (13th c, but applicable to the 14th c)
Chausses
and Braies
Recreating
Braies
Images
Examples of Men's
Clothing
Hunters
Taking a Break, BNF Richelieu Manuscrits Français 12399
Extant Garments (men and women)
A
comparison of extant garments in Denmark in the mid-to-late 14th Century
Some
Clothing from Archaeological Finds (Marc Carlson)
Cynthia
Virtue's
Extant Garments of the Middle Ages
Gallery of Images (men and women)
Images
from 14th Century Spain
French
Manuscript 122 (Lancelot, Holy Grail, Death of Arthur)
Textiles and Sewing
Sewing and
Textile
Information
Recommended Reading
Crowfoot, Elisabeth, Frances Prtichard, Kay Staniland, Textiles
and Clothing c.1150-1450 (Medieval Finds from Excavations in London)
Newton, Stella Mary, Fashion
in the Age of the Black Prince: A Study of the Years 1340-1365
Ostergard, Else, Woven
into the Earth: Textiles from Norse Greenland
Thursfield, Sarah, Medieval
Tailor's Assitant: Making Common Garments 1200-1500
Please suggest more links! This is a great age for illumination
and there are many sources of images of people.
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